The rich traditional flavor of the tray steamed rice rolls

Over the course of history, among hundreds of shops selling a variety of breakfast items in the area, the traditional streamed rice rolled in trays still “exists” in the middle of the city and is a familiar address for many people. Coming here, people can not only enjoy the traditional steamed rice roll but also be fascinated by each stage of the rolls making with the unique cuisine of the Tay and Nung ethnic groups in Xu Lang.

The Tray steamed rice  rolls are actually called by the Nung and Tay ethnic groups in the province as “pun slin”, or “tong thong”, in some places it is called “cao ón”. To easily distinguish it from modern steamed rice rolls,  people in the city often call it  traditional steamed rice rolls  or tray steamed rice rolls. Although there are many different names, they are all used to refer to the traditional rice rolls of the Nùng and Tay people, in rural areas of the province, which is often made in the spare time from farming or on rainy days when people cannot go to the rice field. This is also a gift of married ethnic women give to their mother when they visit their home.

Traditional steamed rice rolls is dipped with a dipping sauce of grilled tomatoes, then peeled, crushed and added a little salt and a little fat.

People enjoy traditional steamed rice rolls at the steamed rice rolls shop at Than Canh Phuc street, Hoang Van Thu ward

In the past, the “old street” area (the market in Hoang Van Thu ward, Lang Son city today) had 3 shops making traditional steamed rice rolls, but due to the laborious and time-consuming way of making the rolls, most of the following generations can no longer maintain the tradition of selling this dish. Steamed rice  rolls in restaurants in the province are “pun slin” rolls that have been simplified, applying modern methods in processing to make it more convenient for people to eat it as breakfast every day.

Currently, if you want to enjoy the true taste of traditional steamed rice rolls, people in the city can only go to the address No. 25, Than Canh Phuc street, Hoang Van Thu ward because this is the only place that still preserves the basic methods and recipes of traditional steamed rice rolls of the Nung and Tay people to serve people in the city.

Mrs. La My Quynh (commonly known as Mrs. Khinh), the traditional stream rice rolls maker at the above address is the 4th generation following the family’s career from 1980 to present. Ms. Khinh said: The preparation stages for making traditional steamed rice rolls are different from those of today. The rolls ingredients can only use bao thai rice. After soaking for 4 to 5 hours, the rice will be thoroughly milled (in the past, it was finely pounded with a mortar) and carefully sifted so that the flour is smooth. Next, the rice flour will be soaked with water for 3 times, filtered to remove all the water in the top (sour water). If the current type of steamed rice rolls, the makers add a certain percentage of tapioca flour together with rice flour to make the rolls tough and transparent, then “pôn slín” is made entirely from rice flour without mixing any other powder.

When making rolls, it is necessary to use a wood stove. The baker will put some flour in an aluminum tray, then add meat, vegetables, or eggs if the eater needs it, then drop the tray into a large pot of boiling water at high temperature. The rolls is not only cooked from steam but also cooked by boiling water passing through the cake tray. One of the unique features of traditional steam rice rolls is a lot of meat, and the meat in the rolls is completely fresh meat that is minced by hand and cooked with the rolls, so it keeps its sweet and fragrant taste (Current rolls use pre-roasted meat with spices).

At the restaurant, we had the opportunity to chat with many customers, many of which shared that they have eaten here since they first started to talk and walk until now. Mrs. Vu Mong Nguyet, Than Canh Phuc Street, Hoang Van Thu Ward, Lang Son City said: Being a bride here for 53 years, that’s the same number of years I’ve been here eating “pun slin” every morning. My children are now married  and have children and grandchildren, but they still remember and often come here to eat “pun slin”.

Due to traditional processing, there is only one roll “out of the oven” per minute on average, so to enjoy traditional steam rice rolls, customers need to wait patiently. Not decorated and spacious like other restaurants, this traditional steamed rice rolls restaurant has never had a board, only a table and 2 benches on the courtyard but still has a strange attraction. Each turn of guests in and out continuously from 6 am to 10 am. Although located on a quite empty side street, few people pass by, Ms. Khinh’s restaurant still regularly welcomes many tourists from everywhere to enjoy through the introduction of people in the area.

Mrs. Au Thi Nga Son, Vice President of the Provincial Heritage Association said: It is by keeping this traditional way of making that the finished steamed rice rolls are opaque white, very fragrant with rice, and flexible, soft, chewy but melts in the mouth, the eater can still feel the cool taste even though the rolls is still hot. The roll is used with a dipping sauce that has been changed to suit the taste of the majority of people, which is rice vinegar mixed with sweet and sour, mixed with peanuts and coriander to create a very unique flavor. This is one of the culinary cultural heritages of the Nung and Tay ethnic groups in the province that needs to be preserved and promoted.